When we finally made our way on this day it was almost dark. But we still wanted to arrive in Spain. We drove a few hours through the night to Tangier, purchased at one of the stations outside the harbor a ticket and finally reached the last ferry at midnight just before the ship left. Short and sweet I said goodbye and took leave of a country and people who grew during the trip very dear to my heart. I learned to understand their culture, to tolerate their beliefs, to respect their traditions and to appreciate their being. Shukran, guardian angels that you are always next to me, no matter where I go. Insanely happy I let myself sink into a chair while floating over the gurgling waves to Spain.
We wandered through Fes‘ old medina and almost got lost in the ornate, intricate way system, which was filled with traders and craftsmen and dye-works – just as in other moroccan towns as well. After we finally found a way out of the maze, we were invited by Nabil’s cousin and his family to have lunch with them. They served a banquet in several courses and on top they put us on the guest list for an arab wedding of one of the daughters, who is getting married in August.
We passed by Essouira and El Jadida (really beautiful port cities), came to Casablanca, Rabat and Meknes and arrived finally in Fes. Here we met up again with Nabil, which we already knew from Rabat and his cousin plus a few friends of them. Trixe, one of their friends offered us a place for the night in a room on the roof above a grocery store which we gratefully accepted.
The village of Taghazout was really romantic with all its colorful fishing boats and sandy beaches, or the winding streets, the stylish surfers, the mighty waves, the pleasant summer weather, the fresh calamari and the salty smell of the sea, the disguised tourist camels, the idyllic palm-lined avenues, the enchanting sunsets and with its inviting restaurants. We got a nice and affordable apartment and met quickly a few locals here, smoked shisha, played chess, drank fruit shakes, were invited to tea and won a beach soccer match with them. In these wonderful five relax days, I got to know the dynamic actress Fiona who was traveling alone with her surfboard and guitar in Morocco. Brave, right? Once again we had gathered our strength back for the journey, we saddled up and started towards El Jadida and Fez.
Just follow the sun!
After visiting in the morning the ruins of old Agadir on a nearby hill, we drove into the mountains to be able to view the famous waterfalls, the cascades of Imouzza. I guess the nice Senegalese next door has told us the wrong way, because we drove off endless roads that seemed as if here haven’t rolled along tires for years. Just before dusk, we finally made it to summit of the Cascades – but it was already night, and that’s really dangerous in the mountains. We arrived healthy at midnight the valley, drove further to Taghazout and are now in a cozy place to stay.
It was time for us to explore the still unknown coastal parts of Morocco. There’s still a lot to see. This time we didn’t allow us plenty of time to drive through the desert and mastered the route to Agadir in three days. What we’ve seen there? Fishing! Many fishermen spread along the coast, live and fish every day. They seemed quite happy to take contact to the outerworld through us. In any case, they enjoyed sitting on my horse and pose in front of the camera. I was surrounded by moments that fascinated me. Moments i’ve never seen that way in my life before. The fear was overcome, the curiosity satisfied. I got to know each Sahari as amiable people. Whether homeless or fisherman, strays or policeman, young and old – they all had one thing in common – admirable warmth. Happy new year to all!
We left our dream camp and set out late at night towards Dakhla. When we came out of the desert sand and found a road again, suddenly a bunch of 4×4 drivers passed by, led by two flag-waving motorcyclists with enabled warning lights. „I WANT TOO!“ did i think to myself and were already at 100mph and put myself up to the forefront of the honking, flashing SUVs. The motorcyclists greeted me immediately, I got a „thumbs up“ and I was given one of their flags – of course I turned on also my signal and honked, stood up and went on with the flag in the air. All police stations let us pass with greeting and suddenly we got a police escort vehicle that went in front of us. The street was cleared, next to me on the sidewalks were jubilant Moroccans, I did not really know what actually was happening, but it was good. Bold and good. And i was right in the middle. When suddenly a camera crew drove next to me and filmed me swinging my flag, it was obvious that the crowds on the roadside not accidentally stood there and waved. We drove to the center of Dakhla and were finally briefed by the police here. The other riders and me were leading the way – the 4×4 followed us. They showed me my parking space and I just played along. The place was filled with camera crews and photographers. We dismounted, we laughed , they welcomed me, admired my machine, pulled me right in the crowd and in a positioned tent there, they gave me tea and fruits and i were fed with jars with peculiar substance (I guess it was camel milk) because I already had my hands full and enjoyed it. Back on my machine, i met the girls who arrived by the 4×4 and as it turned out they were member of a demonstration for peace through half of Africa „Manifestation pour la paix“. The Moroccans thought somehow I was a rallye driver for this peace project or something? Suddenly I was the star of the crowd and everyone wanted to be photographed together with me and the machine. I didn’t really get what’s happening. Then television crews appeared and the two motorcycle riders dragged me in front of the camera and gave off an interview about me and my journey – I just stood there waving my flag and grinning from ear to ear. Unfortunately, they couldn’t tell me exactly when it is broadcasted in the Tv. After all the excitement i was given the flag and a sponsor cap and invited to a dinner party on the next day at their hotel. Then I drove satisfied through the city and searched for Hias, which I had accidentally lost while doing the escort service.
It’s Christmas and we want to spend Christmas Eve in the desert with our new friends! We borrowed a Berber tent in the city, bought lots of vegetables, fruits and meat in the market and started finally cutting across country to the Sahara in search of a beautiful spot. After a long-winded and tiring driving so fully packed through the sand, we were far away from any civilization where we build up our tents. It had become night and a few of us went out to collect firewood, which turned out being not that easy, the rest of us was busy with setting up the berber tent. We positioned the bikes as wind barriers for our tents to protect us against sandstorms. We made a campfire, grilled meat and pickled mushrooms, eggplant and zucchini while we prepared in our tent kitchen tomatoes, carrots, olives and avocado salads, played music, drunk Christmas wine, lay star- sniffing in the sand and enjoyed the freedom between the dunes and the silence of the desert. We really had a Merry Christmas.
White beaches, fantastic kite spots and catalog like surf resorts, turquoise Atlantic lagoons and picturesque dune walls. Dakhla. Last night we slept in a hostel for about 30 dirhams, this morning we unintensionally met a few people, whose acquaintance we already made at a gas station two days earlier. These are the funny Spaniard Daniel, who wants to give his life a new meaning with a 5-year circumnavigation of the world because of a work injury and the playful Belgian Cyprien, who wants to explore Deep Africa by bike for a year. Add to that the Frenchwoman Stephanie, who fled into the desert to escape her boring everyday life, the Moroccan professional kitesurfer Mehdi and two „Beifall“ Senegalese.